Saturday, 5 January 2013

Erdem | Pre-Fall 2013

 I am in love with Erdem's Pre-Fall 2013 collection; the cuts, the prints, the textures, are all amazing.
I you usually do, I can completely envision myself wearing one of these outfits.

Here's what Tim Blanks from had to say,
 'According to Erdem Moralioglu, the sexiest part of a woman's body is her collarbone. His pre-fall collection put it on show: strapless dresses, obviously, but also pieces yoked in sheer organza and provocative PVC. After spicing up Spring with snakeskin, Erdem turned to plastic and leather to give his latest designs the requisite…no, let's not say wrongness yet again…let's opt for incorrectness this time 'round. That was his word. The need to create a sense of jarring disturbance is clearly an obsession with the designer, like it's something he requires to balance out his equally obsessive precision and perfectionism. Here, the results were so sophisticated but so peculiar that they left you craving a taste of whatever it was that spiked the punch at Erdem's cocktail party.

That PVC, for example, mounted with crepe cutouts in a psychedelic Prince of Wales check. Or the sheath in a tensile organza-backed, jeweled netting, vibrating over a black bra and slip. Or the tulle-yoked frock in a navy leather broderie anglaise. Or another dress raw-cut from pink silk, green crepe, and navy lace bonded to create one techno-organic cloth. Erdem's ever-growing technical acuity was clearest in these odd but unforgettable fabrics. He claimed that was the point: simple silhouettes whose impact was dramatically concentrated on texture and color. One short-sleeved floor-sweeper, shaded in a deep petrol splashed with sick pink, said it all. These were clothes you'd expect to find on the backs of Erdem's favorite psychological subjects, immaculately collar-boned Hitchcock blondes and their Italian cousin (Monica Vitti in Red Desert). When he veered away from that kind of clarity—with a boxy, angora-collared suit in a lamé tweed, for instance—his hand wasn't quite so sure. There is, after all, always the risk that obsession will breed excess. On the other hand, excess looked rather splendid in a dress of floral silk crepe overlaid with huge paillettes dyed to match, like giant fish scales.' 

I think this collection will also be making it into my sketchbook at some point, I cannot help but put everything and anything in there that I fell has some kind of relation to my project. As you have seen in my post Question Everything, I have began to explore artists and designers obsession with 'ugly'. It interests me how designers manage to create a beautiful 'incorrectness' as Tim puts it in his review of Erdem's collection you read above, and artists manage to create masterpieces with the most grotesque, vulgar images (have a look at my previous post on the biro works of Jean Francisco Casas Ruiz or Jenny Savile is the first other artist to come to my head). 
I also like the use of the word 'disturbance', is it now the case that to dress in order to be noticed, you must be dressed ugly? I guess yes. After all, bad taste is the height of fashion.
I once said that somebody, when I was asked a question about my opinion on their outfit and was gifted the response of a major huff and a comment that I guess was supposed to insult me, that wearing glittery blue socks with red creepers is most definitely bad taste.
Given the statement I made prior, my reaction to the comment was very much on the contrary.

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